The removal of unsightly or unwanted hair uncovers our largest organ, the skin.
An increasing number of clients are suffering adverse reactions from waxing that are easily avoided with a common-sense approach, sound knowledge of skin, proper client consultation and quality products that are used as directed.
Waxing and the Skin.
Waxing is a service offered by most beauty salons, however unfortunately interac¬tion with the client and significant consultation are often overlooked. Therapists and clients are focusing predominately on removing hair from various parts of the body generally the quicker and cheaper the better.
That is, until something goes wrong!
A hair removal service should enhance a client’s appearance leaving soft, smooth skin whilst maintaining barrier protection. A simple misjudgement due to lack of client consultation, insufficient knowledge or practical skills can produce unsightly adverse reactions and cause client discomfort and emotional stress.
Client problems due to improper waxing
Clients may leave the salon feeling tender in the area that has been waxed. They could experience oedema or erythema that causes them concern or their skin may have been grazed and at risk of infection.
Even several hours after the treatment the client may start to feel an irritation that escalates into a more severe allergic reaction that may need medical attention. This then leads to establishing what caused the reaction.
Clients who suffer from hyperpigmentation, sun damage, thinning skin, couperose, hormonal changes, and / or skin sensitivity are left angry and disappointed when a simple upper lip wax results in hyperpigmentation (discoloration on the skin) that appears as if the client still has a moustache.
DON’T LET THIS HAPPEN TO YOUR CLIENTS OR YOUR SALON
Plan, Protect, Prevent
As with any service performed in a salon, the client must be evaluated and prepared for the treatment. The first client consultation is very important as it allows you to gather valuable information, build rapport and aids the client to gain trust and confidence in you as the beauty operator. Understanding the anatomy and physiology of the skin can give insight to the measures that can be made to minimise the damage that can occur due to waxing treatments.
Throughout the consultation process you are gathering information that will aid in deciding the best treatment program based on individual client characteristics.
Identifying a client’s characteristics involves analysing and assessing their skin type and health as well as their hair, its position, pattern of regrowth and previous methods of hair removal. This information should be recorded in the client record card.
The therapist must be confident in identifying various types of contraindications that may prevent or restrict treatment, or simply require a specific treatment protocol to avoid adverse reactions.
Some examples of contraindications:
• some types of acne
• recent scars
• using retinols or AHA products.
• varicose veins
• bacterial, fungal, parasitic and viral infections on the areas to be waxed
• hypertrophic and keloid tendency
• grazing, rashes, pigmented skin lesions
• recent surgery
• radiation or chemotherapy
• skin trauma
• immune disorders
Avoiding post inflammatory hyper-pigmentation and waxing patients with Melasma
Jax Wax Australia recommends hot/hard wax for facial waxing. We have developed treatment procedures that when used with our lower melting point wax formulas, protect sensitive /reactive areas, maintain the integrity of the skin throughout the waxing treatment and more importantly skin protection after the waxing treatment.
What is Melasma?
Melasma is a chronic skin disorder that results in symmetrical, blotchy and brownish facial pigmentation. It can lead to considerable embarrassment and distress. Contributing causes of melasma include sun damage, visible light, hormonal factors, Melanocytes and melanin, inflammation, vascular factors and genetics.
Melasma is always more prominent in summertime as heat can be a common trigger, as well as this some cosmetic fragrances, deodorants or soaps may cause phototoxic reactions.
Jax Wax Australia facial waxing protocol for clients with pigmentation or melasma
1. Client is to fill out Jax Wax Australia’s client consultation form, the therapist will discuss in private and explain the treatment method.
2. The therapist should explain and confirm with the client any areas of pigmentation or melasma, some salons may wish to take photos to keep on file.
3. Cleanse the skin – on a cotton round pump a small amount of Jax Wax Australia Sweet Orange Pre-Wax Oil, then spray over the oil with Jax Wax Australia’s Alpine Bluebell Pre Wax Skin Cleanser. Wearing gloves the products can be emulsified together using fingertips. Support the skin and gently wipe over the area to be waxed to remove makeup and surface bacteria. Some oil will remain on the skin creating a protective barrier.
4. Have a small dish with cool water on your waxing trolley. After cleansing cotton rounds can be used as a cold compress to help settle reactive skin. Simply place a wet cotton round on the area, apply light pressure and then remove.
5. Apply a light dusting of corn-starch to the area to help lift the hair and further protect the skin
6. Using Jax Wax Australia’s Costal Banksia Hot Wax; apply the wax in the direction of the hair growth, press down and remove. Apply pressure to the skin immediately to help block the pain signal and apply cold compress again. For stubborn hair or fine vellous hair, it may be necessary to wax over the area a second time. If doing this place corn-starch over the area again and this time apply the wax in the reverse direction and remove.
7. Apply cold compress to the skin with light pressure for a minute to aid in reducing heat in the area.
8. Apply Jax Wax Australia’s Vanilla After Wax Body Lotion to sooth the skin and calm redness. It is also suggested to apply cosmeceutical concealer/sunblock to skin after waxing.
9. It is important that your client understands important after care that will help prevent post inflammatory hyperpigmentation. Teaching them to avoid triggers and suggesting proper skin care products that will help reduce their pigmentation or melasma will ensure complete client satisfaction.
10. Jax Wax Australia offer training workshops in all areas of waxing, designed to make waxing a treatment not just a service
Michele Hetherington Jax Wax Australia National Training Manager.
Michele Hetherington has been involved in the beauty industry for over 20 years and has continued to embrace new ideas and technologies. Michele maintains Industry currency whilst increasing her knowledge of the skin working alongside mentor, Senior Plastic & Reconstructive surgeon Dr Lionel Chang MBBS- FRACS from Burwood in Sydney.
Michele attended a recent seminar were Dr Lily Talakoub a board-certified Dermatologist of McLean Dermatology and Skincare Centre in McLean, Virginia USA, spoke about Melasma, Doctor Talakoub has published many articles on Melasma triggers, and was more than happy to comment on Michele’s article.
From Doctor Lily below:
“I would add: Pigmentation can occur in anyone. Light or dark skin is susceptible. Any redness in the skin lip, eyebrow, face will get brown if exposed to the sun. After any waxing, an SPF sunscreen with at least 6 percent zinc oxide and titanium oxide should be used on the waxed areas. Avoiding the sun for 48 hours after is also beneficial. Be careful not to let the sunscreen wear off after a heavy workout or wear one that is water resistant. Dermaplaning is a great alternative for those with facial hair that are prone to pigmentation.”
Dr. Lily Talakoub of McLean Dermatology and Skincare Center in McLean, Virginia.
McLean Dermatology and Skincare Center
6849 Old Dominion Drive, Suite 340
McLean, Virginia USA. 22101